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| + | ====== pcb-printer: Experiments ====== | ||
| + | {{tag>project hardware pcb electronics process infrastructure}} | ||
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| + | * Use etch-resist ink as [[http://tech.dir.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction/message/830?var=1|solder mask]] | ||
| + | * can you solder using a soldering iron? | ||
| + | * can you solder using the reflow oven? (might get too hot) | ||
| + | |||
| + | * Get etch resist to NOT FUCKING FLAKE OFF THE STUPID PCB DURING ETCHING GRAAAAAAHHH! *rage* | ||
| + | * **RESULTS:** Use Fe3Cl, not NaPS. All other attempts led to epic failage. | ||
| + | * Tried a couple of curing temperatures (temp setting on reflow oven) and times, here are my results: | ||
| + | |||
| + | | ^ 100 ðC ^ 150 ðC ^ 170ðC ^ 180 ðC ^ 200 ðC ^ | ||
| + | ^ 4min | | FAIL! | FAIL | FAIL | OKish | | ||
| + | ^ 6min | | FAIL | | FAIL | | | ||
| + | ^ 8min | FAIL | FAIL | OKish | | | | ||
| + | ^ 10min | | FAIL | | | | | ||
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| + | * "OKish" means the resist still flaked off, but stuck to the board relatively long. | ||
| + | * An attempt to print on a pre-heated PCB and curing for 4min at 170 ðC gave the best results so far (though not perfect), but the hot PCB warped the plastic carrier beyond repair =( A routed aluminium carrier with integrated heating could work. | ||